Kiev, Ukraine

Founded in the 5th century, Kiev is the mother city of Ukraine, Russia and Belarus. All three descended from Kievan Rus, the Slavic super-state that existed from the 9th to the 11th centuries. Since then, Kiev has survived Mongol invasions, devastating fires, communist urban planning and the massive destruction of WWII. The Old Town is concentrated around the north-eastern end of vulitsya Volodymyrska and contains a number of Kiev's historic landmarks. The main attraction is the 11th century St Sophia Cathedral, the city's oldest standing church, which contains some of the country's greatest mosaics and frescoes. A few blocks south of the cathedral is Kiev's main commercial promenade, the vulitsya Khreshchatyk, a bustling thoroughfare lined with shops. At the southern end of Khreshchatyk, the aisles at the Bessarabsky Market are filled with fruit and vegetable vendors. Old Town is within walking distance of central Kiev.

Andriyivsky vzviz, Kiev's most charming street, winds its way north from Old Town to the base of the Podil district, the historic merchants' quarter and river port. Andriyivsky is lined with galleries, shops, restaurants and cafes. The heart of Podil is the Kontraktova ploshcha, a park-like square named for the large, white arcaded Kontraktova Dim (House of Contracts) occupying the centre. Dating from 1817, the building is now filled with restaurants, galleries and businesses. A few blocks to the north-west is the chilling but fascinating Chernobyl Museum, where exhibits document the worst nuclear disaster in history - bringing home the fact that it happened only 100km (62mi) to the north. A few blocks west is the oldest standing structure in Podil, the 1631 Church of Mykola Prytysko. Its whitewashed, green-roofed exterior is a lovely example of early Ukrainian Baroque architecture.

South of Old Town along the river is the Pechersk district, the historic ecclesiastical centre and site of the Caves Monastery, founded in 1051. Spread across wooded slopes above the Dnipro a few kilometres south of the city centre, the monastery is a collection of gold-domed churches, underground labyrinths lined with mummified monks, and elegant monastic buildings turned into museums, one of which is packed with Scythian gold. The Dormition Cathedral, part of the monastery complex, dates from the late 11th century. Despite being partially destroyed by the Red Army during WWII, it's one of the country's greatest Baroque religious buildings. To the north of the cathedral is the Historical Treasures Museum, devoted mainly to artefacts and precious stones and metals from Ukraine. The highlight is the display of Scythian goldwork from the 4th century BC. There's also a 12th century model of Kiev and exhibits of richly ornamented goblets, crosses, chalices and icons by Ukrainian, Russian, Polish and Lithuanian masters. City buses connect the Pechersk district with downtown Kiev.

The Folk Architecture Museum is 12km (7 miles) south of the city centre but well worth the trip. Spread out over scenic rolling hills dotted with groves of trees are a large number of 17th to 20th century wooden cottages, churches, farmsteads and windmills, many with beautiful gardens and preserved interior furnishings. The museum is divided into seven small villages representing regional traditions, and there are some good restaurants, a gift shop and special events. You can make the trip from downtown Kiev by city bus.